Taking what I had learned from my Colette Jasmine Blouse I just finished, I thought I had actually managed to get the fit right away on the Colette Oolong dress, but unfortunately I was wrong…
I cut the shoulder at a size 4, and graded out to a size 6 from the bust downwards. I had a good fit when I put the front and back together. It seemed to be a perfect fit actually, but after I attached the sleeve, it pulled in the above bust area in the front and pulled a little just above the armhole in the back.
I’ve been humming and hawing about how to remedy this fit problem since Friday, and I think my solution is to re-cut the shoulder at a size 6, and likely grade out to a size 8 at the bust.
Because the bodice only goes to the point below the bust, I think I’m also going to need to muslin the skirt portion of this pattern, because I’m not sure whether I want to stick with a size 6 in the hips or go to a size 8. I don’t want to be swimming in it, but there’s nothing worse than a garment being too tight.
I think that where I am now, my next steps will be to re-trace the pattern pieces in the bigger size, and re-muslin it. I also need to cut the sleeve a little bigger. I cut it at a 4 in the cap and graded it out to a size 12 at the bottom (which basically just removed the part where the sleeve tapers in), but it’s still too snug at the bottom, so while I think I can get away with a size 4 in the sleeve cap, I’d be more comfortable with it cut to a size 6, and I want to grade the bottom of the sleeve out to a 14 or 16 (I have to figure out which one will give me about half an inch-ish (maybe a slight bit more) from the size 12 altogether).
I’m also thinking about shortening the sleeve slightly to give it a more modern feel. Ohhhhh, I just had a thought…Maybe I’ll use the sleeve from the Jasmine blouse! How cute would that be?!? Might be a little long though for what I’m going for.
While I had my Oolong bodice on, I decided to mark it up with chalk a little bit to illustrate the areas where it was too tight. It was nice to be able to take it off and objectively see the areas that weren’t working for me.
I think that the next pattern I make is going to be one that isn’t meant to be cut on the bias, so it’s a bit easier to make fit alterations.